In terms of after you’ve set everything, the only way to adjust it would be something like a balance/bias bar like you said. Either way you need a number so I guess you’ve got to go with what you have. Idk what tires you’re using, but I remember our suspension team designed for 1.6-2.0 MAX and those were under very special conditions. I would avoid using different calipers for the sake of reducing complexity in your wheel assembly designs, but everything else is fair game.Īlso yeah your friction coefficient is probably not actually going to be that high. Other people have said most of the things it consider, different rotor sizes, master cylinder sizes, bias bars etc. To achieve your design bias, whatever it is, you can literally change anything about each component in the lineup between your driver putting their foot on the pedal and the pad getting pressed on the rotor. Made a matlab code for this back in my day. Changing master cylinders affects pedal input force aswell so keep that in mind in your designs Fine tuning is then done on the balance bar depending on driver weight and the track conditions. From our weight transfer numbers that’s a little high so we have a. We personally have rear calipers that only have 2 pots instead of 4 which automatically makes them lighter and gives a 66% front bias. Here’s a great video from HPA on the general process of tuning brake bias HPA Brake Bias Tuning Generally most people size with MC and then fine adjustment with bias bar but since you also have option to change rotor and caliper sizing you should look into that so that they aren’t oversized and you’re increasing weight for no reason. I would talk to your suspension and aero/vd lead about weight transfer and aero load and how that will affect the available grip once weight transfer starts so your targeting the right things. Brake Force Calculator- this online calculator is a pretty good start and shows you how different things can change your brake force bias (what your target should be).
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